TIMBERLINE TRAIL '06

The Timberline Trail, constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) in the 1930's rambles around the flanks of the Mt Hood. Named after Samauel Hood (a British Admiral), Mt. Hood is the highest peak in the state of Oregon, rising ~11,237 ft above the timbered slopes of Clackamas and Hood River Counties.

Along its ~41 mile course, The Timberline Trail passes through forest, pumice filled canyons, grassy meadows, bare alpine slopes, a designated wilderness, and shares a few miles with the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.

The Timberline Trail is quite popular. Other than being a very stunning route, its close proximity to a major metropolitan area certainly plays a part in its use. Equestrians are not allowed along the Timberline Trail, and although no quota-based permit system is yet in place for day use or overnight hiking, the route is in very fine shape and the typical signs of overuse were not apparent.

From September 4-6th I hiked the Timberline Trail with Chris "Suge" Willet from Washington State. Although we've known each other for a few years, and suspected our hiking styles were compatible, this was our first outing together.

DAY 1:

Chris and I camped the previous night in a sheltered stand of spruce --- dark enough to keep the near-full moon from blinding us, and far enough from the HUM of Labor Day tour buses and traffic. I awoke early and puttered around picking up trash for an hour before Chris awoke. Before gearing up we headed to Timberline Lodge to relive some moments from our respective PCT hikes --- specifically a mid-morning binge at the Cascade Room's Breakfast Buffet.

Arriving soon after us (and already a plate behind) were two fellows that had that distinct thru-hiker look about them --- a slight gimp, huge smiles, and enormous appetites. Before sliding over to their table to chat, Chris and I finished our own buffet binge, and allowed the hikers to continue their own.

Mike and Wounded Knee were indeed thru-hikers...heading northbound with that strange mix of excitement and trepidation that thru-hikers seem to develop as they get close to ending their hikes. Excited to be close to completing the trail, but a bit trepidatious at the prospect of actually being done.

We talked away the morning --- gear, footcare, hiking style, etc --- but eventually parted ways as Mike was heading out this afternoon (as were Chris and myself), and Wounded Knee was looking forward to a day off.

 

Eventually Chris and I got geared up, wandered up to the start of the Timberline and began our counter-clockwise circumambulation around Mt Hood.

The skies were blue, the temperature perfect. Only complaint for the morning was my bloated buffet belly, and a smokey horizon as a number of forest fires were still actively burning in the area. The effect was still pretty --- think distant, hazy Appalachian ridgelines -- but I would have preferred to see Mt Jefferson on the southern horizon.

 

Leaving the Timberline Lodge we headed eastward along the PCT before leaving it at a signed Timberline Trail #600 jct. In the first mile of hiking we passed a few women who were carrying some ULA P-2 Packs. Always nice to see folks using one of my packs...even the more so when they have a smile on their face. Despite promising to embarrass me if we happened to run into anyone with a ULA Pack, Chris showed great restraint and we continued on, eventually descending to and crossing the White River.

 

 

After climbing from the pumice lined banks of the White River, we ascended to open meadows and enjoyed beautiful single track trail. Despite having missed the peak wild flower bloom, the meadows were quite lush and a few colorful clumps of flowers remained. We crossed a number of springs and seeps as we contoured along the trail. Having frequent water and defined trail was quite a luxury. It was refreshing to hike without really having to engage my brain in the activity.

 

 

The flowers that still had the most 'pop' were often found along the banks of springs and seeps along the trail. We passed a few other Timberline Trail hikers through the morning, all of which were completing their own hikes but in the opposite direction. I was surprised to note that the majority of hikers were using external frame packs. I guess I need to get out on standard trails more often to remind myself that the lightweight and ultralight movement is really still in its infancy, despite implementing such an approach for a number of years myself.

 

 

We took a lunch break at Newton Creek...Chris showing his backcountry caloric culinary sense by eating a few big bites from a sweaty chunk of cheddar cheese, and chasing that with a Snicker Bar. In contrast, I enjoyed a Ziploc Bag of re-hydrated black beans with mashed up Fritos, and a pkg of salsa. Tasty, but a far cry from the buffet a few hrs ago! After lunch we crossed the pumice-laden waters of Newton Creek. Heading down canyon, we followed some cairns, distracting ourselves with conversation, and eventually became misplaced in thick vegetation, hop-scotching across fallen timber, and contouring along steep slopes below Gnarl Ridge. Despite our predictament, neither of us showed much concern as to be being 'lost' and we eventually prevailed in discovering the trail...but not until after a fatiguing xc climb. After a short break we continued on, crossing into the Mt Hood Wilderness, and then beginning another gradual climb up and around Lamberson Butte.

 

 

Contouring along the alpine slopes of Mt Hood's eastern flank, we crossed a few patches of snow, and enjoyed drinking the cool, untreated water from the snow's runoff. Upon cresting a ridge, the agricultural valley below Mt Hood opened before us. Again, despite the tremendous relief of the landscape, we had hoped the northern horizon might be more clear, but Mt Saint Helen's and Mt Adams were easily lost in the smoky horizon. We continued on into the late afternoon, past Cloud Cap Camp, below Eliot Glacier, before finding a stealth camp above the trail and well below Langille Glacier. I enjoyed a good footsoak in the snowmelt fed watercourse, just below a double cascade before calling it a night and watching the sun dip slowly on the western horizon.

 

 

DAY 2:

We awoke and headed off at a relaxed pace, confident that our scheduled ~20 miles would be easy to do. The terrain was friendly and the packs were light. Chris and I both seemed to easily slip into a mental place that did not recognize doing anything in an immediate or urgent manner. Time was irrrelevant. All that mattered was the place, and our respective role in it. We took breaks at will, enjoyed the scenery and keep each other entertained with wide ranging conversation throughout the morning.

 

As we continued our contour, now on the north slope of Mt Hood, we dropped down into Elk Cove...a broad, lush meadow with stunning views up the Barrett Spur. Camping is thankfully limited to some designated sites in lower conifer stands which users seem to adhere to despite the allure of the meadow and its associated views. After climbing out of Elk Cove we crossed Cairn Basin above Eden Park and took a nice break creekside.

 

 

Continuing on after our rest stop we continued to meet more people out on the Timberline...the majority of trail goers were groups (2+ people) of older women. Everyone we ran across seemed to be in good spirits and typically had a few questions about our small packs. We continued downward, losing elevation as we entered dense stands of conifer along the Bald Mountain Ridge, before leaving the Mt Hood Wilderness, insecting the PCT, and finding a good spot for lunch.

 

 

 

After lunch we contoured along the Timberline Trail with great views of the west slope of Mt Hood. This section of trail used to be the PCT route but was likely re-routed to its existing location due to the restriction of equestrian travel. We gradually descended to Muddy Fork, crossed, and began a steady contoured ascent.

 

 

 

Mt Hood is a large enough bump in the landscape that it creates a rainshadow effect on it own slopes. The eastern slopes, where we started, were comparitively barren compared to the lush understory growth of found on its western flank. Springs were deliciously numerous, and the coolness of the forest was invigorating.

 

 

 

 

After a short break at Ramona Falls, we continued on and re-joined the PCT, where we ran into Wounded Knee again just before starting a ~2,500 ft long climb. We chatted briefly and wished him well for the remaining ~550 miles to Canada. After a considerable climb (and seeing more PCT thru-hikers) we found a nice campsite just below a spring feed cascade and pulled off the trail in the late afternoon. Another foot soak, a Ziploc Bag dinner, and good conversation as the moon rose, capped off another fine day on the Timberline Trail. Sleep came easy.

 

 

DAY 3:

With only a few miles remaining to Timberline Lodge in the morning, we had a casual start to our last day on the trail. We spent a good portion of our time reflecting on our PCT hikes (me '99, CW '02) as we climbed steadily. Shortly we reached a ridgeline and pulled off the trail to take a break. Mt Hood was fully illuminated by the morning sun, a slight breeze blew, and the snowy slopes of Mt Jefferson could be seen on the souther horizon. Eventually we pushed off, contouring again and began to meet the trickle of dayhikers from Timberline Lodge.

 

 

 

A few minutes later we arrived where we had started, above the lodge with a hint of bacon and eggs on the breeze. Chris posed for his typical photographic position and we rambled back to the cars, dropped our gear, and hit the buffet one last time...