August 9th
Instead of a full rest
day, I decided to push off for Mullan this afternoon and left the gracious
hospitality of Joyce and Konrad around 2 pm...but not until after Joyce
had stuffed me full of cake, berries, carrots, and other goodies from
her garden.
The
rd walk leaving Clark Fork was actually quite scenic and low on traffic
which made it somewhat tolerable. WD enjoyed it because a local who
happens to work at the animal shelter stopped his truck and gave us
an entire bag of dog treats...sometimes you have to say yes, despite
the increase in pack weight! Besides, the ingredient list is pretty
basic, so I figured we could share if need be.
Much of the Clark Fork valley is agricultural land so scenic barns,
rolls of hay, and grazing animals were the norm for the 5 miles of pavement
pounding.
Instead of following the ICT to Dry Creek, I turned up Twin Creek. Dry
Creek was another ~2 miles of rd walk and my feet were protesting slightly.
Besides, according to my maps, there is water higher up Twin Creek than
in Dry Creek which will be helpful considering the next section of the
ICT follows a high ridgeline and is therefore quite dry. Surprisingly,
as I climbed my way to Deryle Forks, Twin Creek rd becomes ATV/Hiker
Trail #77 about half way up as the trees thicken and the old road narrows.
Very pleasant walking this evening and no sign of ATV's.
Camp tonight is a few miles short of Deryle Forks (where I will rejoin
the ICT) and on the west branch of Twin Creek. A bit cool this evening
which I am actually looking forward to as the previous nights on the
trail were too warm despite the higher elevation.
I was very impressed with the last section of trail through the Cabinet
Mtns. The terrain ahead certainly appears much less rugged on the maps
as it basically follows the stateline of ID/MT before dropping into
Mullan, but I am sure it will be scenic.
Brian
August 10th
I got a bit
of a late start today as I was busy chugging as much water as possible
given the potential ridgeline dryness ahead. Bloated, I headed up the
remainder of Twin Creek Trail 77 and soon came upon Deryle Fork and
Rd 322.
The morning was perfect for hiking... cool, a slight breeze, and overcast.
If I kept my pace in check (which WD does by default) water consumption
would not be an issue.
Just
after Deryle Fork, I passed a fellow and his yappie Collie out picking
Huckleberries. The roadway is lined with ripe berries and it did not
take long for my pace to slow, my hands to stain, and my belly to grow.
Thank you Mamma Earth! Tasty.
The rest of the morning continued along, the skies staying overcast
and the day remaining cool. I eventually arrived at Jacks Gulch Jct
where we are stopped for lunch. After feeding WD, I dropped my pack
and wandered down to locate and evaluate Jordan Spring. Having a healthy
spring in this section will be really helpful for other hikers to know
about, so... 600 ft down and 25 mins later I arrived in a lush drainage
after just a short ways of thrashing once I left an ATV trail for 3/4
of the distance. The water was clear, cold, and ready for consumption
as it welled up from the ground. I forced down 2 L before refilling
and climbing back up to the ridge to resume my lunch.
Our lunch break was interrupted by a light rain, so I finished up, packed
up, and got moving. Generating heat is more important to me than resting
once the temps drop. Motivated to cover some ground this afternoon I
decided to carry WD's food bags in addition to my own gear and ~1 gallon
of water. The added weight seemed to have little affect on my pace...when
you know you have the legs, you'd better use 'em! For whatever reason,
my energy seemed limitless this afternoon and I tooled along at 4 mph
to just past Ulm Peak and found a wind sheltered camp for the evening.
Without his luggage, WD was happy to keep pace and trotted along with
me.
Despite
the early hr, 22 miles for the day was plenty and the views from the
ridge are excellent...mostly because the area was recently burned so
I can actually see further than 20 yds into the woods. I am curious
just how cold it intends to get this evening...
This portion of the Bitteroot Mtns are not particularly distinctive.
Just rounded knobs and lumps of forested (and cut) slopes into the distance.
By no means ugly or unworthwhile, but thus far nothing to really set
them apart. But hey, I'll never complain about big open spaces!
Despite being on a rd all day, the walking was pleasant. Rds are much
more tolerable when what they are intended to accommodate are not around.
Only 3 vehicles today.
WD is already in the shelter, curled up on my sleeping pad and stinking
up the place. He has been a bit gassy today...
Brian
August 11th
The cool morning
started with a steep rd walk up to Idaho Point and a communications
station. Big views in all directions, although not towards anything
too spectacular.
The
trail made its way indistinctly along a rocky ridgeline, dropping to
a saddle and then continued on. The wind began to pick up from the west,
and when the trail contoured on the east side of the range, the morning
was pleasant, when not, the 20 mph wind grew tiresome.
About half way from Idaho Point to Porcupine Pass the trail became more
defined and the walking was easy although at times a bit brushy. After
taking a short break at the pass, finding the trail southward was indistinct...further
down the rd than marked on the maps, but a small cairn clued me in.
Once I found it, the trail was in great shape and easy to follow...nicely
contoured as well all the way to the powerlines just past Eighty Seven
Mile Peak.
From
that point it was a rd walk for maybe a mile before I noticed a junction
at the stateline. The ICT follows the rd and contours around to Taylor
Saddle before climbing towards the jct to Ninety Three Mile Lake. Fortunately,
the sign for the trail junction noted the #7 CC Divide Trail and the
same lake being 5 miles distant. Right on! Even better the trail was
in fine shape and made a lovely high contour just below Lost Peak before
dropping to a saddle and then dropping to the Lake.
WD and I are taking a break here for lunch. Originally I had planned
a short 16 miles today and planned to camp here, but I think we'll get
another few miles in and reduce our mileage slightly in the coming days.
The wind is still whipping on the ridge so I am sure I'll have to keep
an eye on my hat this afternoon.
Just before leaving the lake I began to have some issues with my SteriPen
(which uses UV light to treat water) as I was trying to fill up for
the coming miles. I finally managed to coax 1.5 liters out of it...just
enough to hydrate my dinner and to fill a 1 L water bottle, but certainly
not enough to comfortably get me to Mullan, still ~35 miles distant.
I did notice a spring on the map ahead and kept my fingers crossed it
was in good shape...milking a liter for an evening, and then a long
following day would not be pleasant, although doable given the circumstance.
The spring itself was about 7 miles away, but judging by the contour
lines, no possible camping until 2-3 miles later. So, my easy 16 mile
day was looking to be a bit of work. Oh well, what can you do but walk?
Just beyond the lake I saw couple picking huckleberries. Each had nearly
a gallon. That takes some time! The were enjoying a fine day in the
Bitteroots.
Pushing
on I came to rds end and began a steady climb up well graded trail and
then across the scree fields of the western slope of the ridgeline...each
footfall atop the scree sounding like an out of tune piano. Ahhh, now
the Bitteroots were showing some distinction! Craggy, rocky, yet not
unreasonably rugged, all matched well with beautiful trail. Even a few
dwindling snow patches for me to cross and WD to roll around in.
Despite my building anxiety about my water situation, I was enjoying
the afternoon. Occasionally I'd fret, but I knew whatever the case was,
it would force my hand and I'd think of Plan 2.
Fortunately Mamma Earth came through again as I rounded a curve and
caught the smell of water on the wind. The first trickle was just that,
and I knew that filling a gallon of water was going to be time consuming!
But then the wind stopped and I heard a stronger babble of water. I
dropped my pack and picked my way upslope to find a nice filling station.
Perfection! WD was already filling himself up as I gathered my bottles,
chugged what water I had, and then drank an additional 2 L as the bottles
filled. Both refreshed, we continued a long contour across slope with
our eyes peeled for the first campsite...well, at least I was as WD
was more intent to stalk chipmunks.
Eventually, the landscape became less severe as we closed in on a saddle.
Just short of the saddle proper and therefore less of a funnel for the
wind, we settled in for the night.
Reviewing the mileage data, it looks like ~25 miles for the day. A long
one to be sure, but a day that ended on a good note and was a joy to
walk! Good to know that we are both capable of that distance when needed.
The trail was exceptional today with a variety of trail, and a few scenic
surprises along the way as I became more familiar with the Bitteroot
range.
Thanks for reading.
Brian
August 12th
After a very calm evening,
WD and I awoke and hit the trail. More trail perfection in a gradual
contour and then descent to a roadway. Unfortunately ATV's have found
their way about 1/2 mile up the trail from the rd.
From that point, we contoured along rd 430 for a few miles before a
trail jct led to more of the same...excellent trail contouring just
below the ridgeline. A few blowdowns to contend with but nothing rigorous.
After a few miles we began the descent to near Thompson Pass. I was
happily in my head and missed the turn off to the rd, but quickly decided
it did not really matter. The trail I was on led directly to Thompson
Pass and then contoured to rejoin the ICT and the trail to Blossom Lake.
As a bonus, this trail (say it with me!) contoured nicely so I did not
lose any elevation for the next 1.5 miles.
I was surprised to see that Thompson Pass is a paved rd...with FS Interpretative
signage to boot. Guess I've been in the homes of martens, wolverine,
and lynx. All I've seen or heard since Clark Fork are ravens, chipmunks,
squirrels, and deer.
Judging
by the footprints and dustiness, the trail to Blossum Lake is popular.
As such it was well maintained and well graded. WD was happy to greet
the outlet flow of the lake with a minute long drink and a brief instream
lie-down. No doubt refreshing. Blossum Lake looked to be an ideal candidate
for a swim with it's ease of entry and pebbly shoreline. My plans were
to get to Pear Lake ~1 mile distance for lunch and a swim. Setting
off, the trail climbed to a low pass then zig and zagged before finding
the shores of shallow, warm watered Pear Lake. Perfect! I stripped down
and eased in up to my waist then turned and did a backflop into the
water. Submerged in the snowmelt waters of the Lake, I swam about for
a few minutes, and scrubbed off the trail grit from the previous few
days. Totally revived, I emerged, dressed, and decided to do a few more
miles to get away from the bugs and to warm up!
Being clean always does wonders for my psyche. Not sure why exactly,
but a swim or a rinse just lifts my spirits.
A few miles and a stiff climb up from Pear Lake we stopped for lunch
trailside just before noon. Judging by the maps, only ~11 miles remain
to Mullan.
Motivated, WD and I set off again, a downward glide to Glidden Pass
along ATV enhanced switchbacks, a then a short rd walk to Copper
Pass. I was not to patient in finding the trail from Copper Pass and
improvised a bit..finding it location by referencing a curve in the
rd and the bushwhacking to get to it. Back on trail, this section was
poorly maintained and overgrown -- at least in comparison to the previous
days of walking. The trail to the ridge was more an enhanced animal
trail than anything else as it was nearly straight up, loose and over
grown. Manageable, but certainly physical.
Upon cresting the ridge, the trail was in much better shape although
the jct to begin the descent to Mullan was not where my maps indicated.
I backtracked twice thinking I may have passed it, but...no sign. Instead
onward, I simply set of cross country figuring if the trail was indeed
below me, I'd eventually cross it. Fortunately after 10 mins of sidehilling
and descent I found the trail at a switchback and was surprised to see
it in such good condition! The jct must have been just slightly ahead
of where I bailed of the ridge. No harm, no foul.
The remainder of the descent was uneventful, but the lower section of
trail tread is quite dry and loose. Slippery going for sure before the
ICT spits you out onto a rd...which I was obliged to follow into the
town of Mullan, Id.
Lots of times, towns become anchors that keep a hiker in a state of
mind that does not encourage moving on...good food, internet access,
laundry, relaxation, or a nice vibe. Whatever it is, sometimes it is
hard to leave. Fortunately Mullan will not present that challenge! Despite
its lack of appeal, I will be taking a full rest day here tomorrow.
When I checked into the Lookout Motel the proprietor asked where I'd
been hiking. When I replied from Canada, he said he had another hiker
a few weeks ago that had been doing the same but northbound! So, that
was encouraging news that someone else made it through the rigors of
the coming miles although in reverse. If the mystery hiker did continue
on to Canada, than he must have finished before I started because
I have yet to see another backpacker on the trail.
Anyway, another long day on the trail...~24 miles. But...nothing a double
bacon cheeseburger, potato salad and an ice cream bar from the local
tavern could not handle.
With the hum of I-90 close to my bedroom window, I sleep...
Thanks for reading.
Brian
Mullan Rest Day
After threatening a rest day since Naples, I finally took one. Like most rest days it has been spent doing in-town chores, eating, and staying off my feet.
I did make a visit to the Mullan City Museum and learned abit about Capt Mullan who founded this Interstate Hamlet. A fine man, but I am uncertain how proud he'd be of Mullans current state as his legacy. Surviving to be sure, but grasping to hang on it seems to me. The local Silver Mine provides the bulk of the jobs here (as well as community finance), and while Lookout Pass Ski Area is just up the rd, it is close enough to other larger towns that I don't imagine Mullan providing any services to winter enthusiasts during that season. As a hiker town the pickin's are slim, but accommodating enough....small hotel (half filled with community renters), PO, library internet, a tavern, a convenience store, and huckleberry milkshakes. Just enough.
Mullan is also along the Hiawatha Rails to Trails rte, which is a northern Idaho bicycle route that follows old railroad grades. I've seen a few cyclists...all speeding past town.
Temps seem to be on the way up, insuring a hot climb up Boulder Creek to the ridgeline rd that is the ICT. Boulder Creek is an alt rte that helps me avoid more pavement and begins just a few blocks from the Lookout Hotel where I am staying for $24 a night. Price is right!
WD has been sleeping the day away, only awakening when he hears the food hit his dish.
The next three resupplies are what I'd consider `backcountry' meaning the likelihood of me being able to communicate with the outside world from them are very slim. ~450 miles without a town and only one paved rd crossing (~160 miles) at HWY 12! After the HWY I'll head into the Selway-Bitteroot and Frank Church Wilderness areas of central Idaho.
So...that may mean no journal updates until the first week of September when I arrive in Grandjean. Bear with me...I intend to come out the other side!
Thanks for reading.
Brian
