Rest Day at the Outpost, October 25th I decided to take a rest day. I was feeling fatigued and did not see any sense pushing myself when there was no need to. I suppose I am also I bit apprehensive to finish this hike up. Despite having been hiking for 50+ days, I've yet to grow weary of the routine. However, in saying that, I know as soon as I hit the trail tomorrow I will begin to feel a sense of closure and this 'ol horse will be anxious to get back to the barn. Hanging out at the Outpost has been fun. Gary and Tracy are quite hospitable and know the area very well. They started coming to the Colorado Plateau in 1975 and have explored a good portion of the area by airplane, truck, and foot. I've enjoyed learning about their operation here...the nuts and bolts of running an isolated business like theirs. It sounds like a tough row to hoe, and one that I am not sure I would be cut out for despite the romantic appeal of the idea. I've had a good time sharing stories about my own small business and being able to relate to some of their daily concerns. They have quite a diverse customer base --- Boyscouts, groups of teachers, random vacationers, RV'ers, and a string of wealthy folks who fly in for lunch occasionally to land at the Outpost's remote dirt airstrip. Anyway, I've enjoyed the stopped here. Despite not having a payphone, the facilities are great, as is the food and conversation. Heading out to Moab tomorrow. Brian Back on Route, October 26th Yesterday afternoon I had met a group of folks flying ultralight aircraft from the Outpost's airstrip. They had told me if the weather looked good in the morning, they'd have me in the air by 8 am (Thanks Chuck and Amy!). Despite the allure of such an activity, I awoke early and headed out before sun-up. A few miles of dirt road led me to the head of a drainage which I descended into entering the Indian Creek Wilderness Study Area. Following the drainage for a short while, my mind began to wonder and I lost track of my `meander count' -- a simple way to keep track of myself when hiking in a drainage. A bit perturbed at my lack of attention, I took a short break to try to figure out where I was and where I was heading to. After getting about 75% assured of my location I continued down canyon coming to what I believed was the correct branch drainage. From the mouth I could see a feasible notch that would allow me access to the rim and the reassuring views of open country. Working my way to the head of the drainage and then contouring through layers of strata, I popped through the notch and onto the rim. Sure enough, my location become 100% clear and I was right on track. Locating a series of ridgeline pyramids, I contoured along a flat bench wrapping below the landmarks until finding myself above my entry route into the flowing, and cottonwood lined Indian Creek. The views from this ridgeline contour where interesting...seemingly infinite branches of canyons spreading out below me in a twisting, and intimidating manner. Glad I have maps...! The La Sal Mountains were also quite stunning on the NE horizon. After an elusive descent route with a short downclimb thrown in, I followed Indian Creek to its junction with Rustler Canyon which was not flowing. I ate lunch beneath a shady overhang with my feet in the refreshing waters. Simple pleasures.
This would be my route for the next ~8 miles...a well graded, contouring dirt road that would lead me into Lockhart Canyon. It traverses along a large bench between the Colorado River and an impressive band of huge cliffs; on top of which is the Canyonlands Overlook.
Dropping my pack at the split in the canyon, I walked up to a large alcove and found the spring. Described as a pipe dripping into a trough, it was unfortunate to find that the troughs had been overturned and moved away from the piped spring. While the spring was still dripping, it was relatively weak and took ~20 minutes to fill a liter. Regardless I needed water for the upcoming ~40 miles of dry country. I found another seep in the alcove and filled my cookpot to get dinner water going, while I swapped out bottles every 20 minutes at the pipe. Eventually I'd collected ~5 liters, one of which I chugged after dinner, before pushing on into the darkness. Fortunately the exit route was straightforward and another 15 minutes along a constructed cattle trail brought me onto the bench above. I had wanted to get out of the canyon to avoid the sinking, cooler air temps for the night. All in all a great day on the Hayduke. A challenging half day of navigation and relaxing road walk in the evening...all beneath cobalt skies and red rock. ~26 miles Brian October 27th A warm night brought a pleasant morning and I was up and hiking again at first light. Easy going along the flat bench following a vague cattle trail, dipping in and out of shallow drainages. My goal was to get to a large canyon ~2.5 miles distant which I'd be able to follow to re-join the Lockhart Road. As is often the case, my mind was bit slow to start processing the days events and I managed to walk right by the canyon --- noting to myself that it was a very large side drainage (Clue #1). A bit further along the bench, I recall noting how it was nice it was to see the Colorado River again (Clue #2). Stopping to take a short break, I checked my watch and made a mental note that my pace was a bit slow as I should have made it to the exit canyon ~30 minutes ago (Clue #3). Despite the obvious clues, I was oblivious to my blatant oversight and continued to amble along, content with my morning. Rounding a knob I spotted a few Bighorn
Sheep. As they began to move away from me, the `few' became 7.
I backed away into the shadow of a boulder and watched as they
scampered up among the cliffs. Within 10 minutes they were ~1,000
ft above me and ~1/2 mile away, casually traversing steep stone.
Always a treat to see elusive animals, although I hate to disturb
them. It did not take me long to figure out my position...just awhile to forgive myself for the oversight. A bit grumpy with the situation I set out to find a suitable exit without having to backtrack to the known route. The other catch worth mentioning is that I seemingly forgot to mail myself one map in the last re-supply. Of course, it would be the map I needed now to find an alternate route to the rim and Lockhart Road. Intentionally ignoring the rational
conclusion of just backtracking, I found a side canyon that looked
to allow access to the rim. If I could make it up, I'd be back
on the maps I did have and it would not be difficult to find Lockhart
Road. Heading up the canyon I immediately came to a sizeable pouroff
with no obvious and easy route around it. However, there was a
thin shelf that ran along the northern wall of the canyon. If
I could gain access to that shelf, I could get above the pouroff
and continue upcanyon. Backtracking down the canyon, I kept my eyes attuned to any weakness in the canyon wall. Shortly I noticed a large, detached boulder with a tree growing between it and the cliff. Dropping the pack and making a closer inspection, the gap was just wide enough (when I inhaled) to squeeze through. An easy chimney led me to the shelf, and I was able to contour around and above the aforementioned pouroff. Fingers crossed I continued up canyon, traversing slabs, hopping boulders, and then making my way along a Bighorn trail through a crumbly cliffband to gain the rim. Success! I immediately returned to my pack, rigged up the webbing, and hauled the pack up to the shelf, then returned to the rim via the route I'd just discovered. Once on the rim it was only a few minutes of bench walking before I came to Lockhart Road. I am sure if I'd just backtracked from the get go, I would have arrived in the same spot in about the same time, but I know I would have been harassing myself the entire time. Seeing the sheep and finding the route out, I felt redeemed and was able to forgive myself for my inattentiveness.
Kirsten, of Rim Cyclery in Moab, offered me some water which I was grateful for as I was cutting it a bit close for the remainder of the day and for getting into Moab tomorrow. She also offered me a yummy sandwich, and a banana both of which I stuck in my mouth and immediately incinerated. She also recommended another route into Moab -- linking up a few old dirt roads, and a bit of single track trail to drop me right at the pavement of Kane Springs Road. I was excited to hear about the route as I was growing weary of Lockhart and its associated traffic. Looking at the maps, Kirsten's route would have me passing around Jacksons Hole and climbing to Amasa Back. I would also pass by the Potash Ore Processing Facility on the opposite bank of the Colorado. The route looked good, and I was certain to find a better campsite than along the roadside of Kane Springs. So, as the last bike riders and the support vehicle departed, I continued my trudge for another few miles before swinging left down a side road along Kirsten's route. Kirsten gave me great directions and I had no trouble following the route...it is well traveled by cyclists judging by the tire tracks. I am camped below Amasa Back and should be in Moab before noon tomorrow for my final resupply. ~25 miles Brian Moab...Extreme Adventure City USA, October 28th
After a few miles along Kane Springs road, and after passing a number of defaced petroglyph panels en route, I arrived at the PO -- the wind gusty from the south and the skies threatening rain. Can't say I am thrilled to be in Moab other than to get my final resupply box and get out of town. Never much cared for this place despite trying to like it. The community here is great, certainly friendly folks, but something about the constant marketing vibe that runs through town just bugs me...Adventure This! and Adventure That! Extreme! I know it is a tourist based economy and one that caters to thrill seekers (whether motorized or not) but it just is a bit over the top. All that is missing is a Bungee Tower shaped like Kokopelli and painted `sandstone.' Anyway, a few chores to do before heading into Courthouse Wash and Arches National Park for the final ~25 miles of hiking. Brian
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Despite
being quite relaxed, I cut lunch a bit short and continued hiking
up Rustler Canyon. A few meanders and a nice pouroff which I was
able to climb directly up, eventually led me to a 3-way division
of the drainage. Hanging a left, I headed up the northern most
drainage and shortly exited and walked cross-country before finding
the Lockhart Road. 
Lockhart
Canyon was a pleasant walk. The tall cliffs gave me some relieve
from the sun, and I did pass an interesting old A-Frame shack
along the way. Hiking alongside a few enormous sand dunes, I soon
found myself at the mouth of a side canyon that promised water
and my exit back to the rim. 
Continuing
along the bench I walked to the rim of a side canyon where I could
see the Colorado River flowing lazily by. Finally! I thought,
my exit canyon! Checking the maps, I was astonished to see quite
clearly that the Colorado River should not be able to be seen
from the correct exit canyon --- but yet there it was, right below
me. Hmmm. Not good. 
Anyway,
the rest of the day I was passed off and on by a group of mountain
bikers, jeeps, and a few motorcycles as I followed the Hayduke
along Lockhart Road. I was supposed to continue on this dirt road
for the remaining ~25 miles to Moab. Fortunately in the late afternoon
I came across a support vehicle for some of the mountain bikers.
Strolled
into Moab this morning before 10 am after a great morning of single
track hiking above the Colorado River. Very pleasant.
